MARC JACOBS is again in the running for women’s designer

MARC JACOBS is again in the running for women’s designer of the year from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and top accessory maker as well; his fall collection of beautiful and modest clothes makes him deserving. Ditto Donna Karan, who has sharpened up her collections in recent seasons. And Alexander Wang is fast building a brand. (The nominees for men’s designer of the year are Michael Bastian, Tom Ford and David Neville and Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone.)

I’m more intrigued by the contest for the Swarovski young designer award — namely, among Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu and Joseph Altuzarra. The winner will have the personal satisfaction of being recognized by his New York peers, but a more meaningful measure of success these days is possession of a vision that excites people on an international stage, plus good business connections. Making good clothes is not enough, though it was gratifying during the economic crisis to see the level of quality in Mr. Gurung’s and Mr. Altuzarra’s work; they had just started their businesses. And Mr. Wu got the tip from Michelle Obama.

But who in three or four seasons has provided the creative stretch that runway mavens look for? Whose name is mentioned quietly among European houses as someone to watch and, maybe eventually, design or advise behind the scenes? And who keeps a bit of a distance from the pack? Beyond the C.F.D.A. awards night on June 7, I would keep my eye on Mr. Altuzarra.